Indasitiri yekudhaya ine dambudziko
Kune matambudziko mazhinji neazvino machira ekudhaya uye maitiro ekurapa, uye anenge ese ane chekuita nekuwanda kwekushandisa kwemvura uye kusvibiswa.Kudhaya donje kunonyanya kushandisa mvura, sezvo zvichifungidzirwa kuti kudhaya uye kupedza kunogona kushandisa marita zana nemakumi maviri nemashanu emvura pakirogiramu yeshinda dzedonje.Haisi kudhaya chete kunoda mavhoriyamu makuru emvura, kunovimbawo neakawanda simba rekupisa mvura uye chiutsi chinodiwa pakupera kwaunoda.
Inosvika mazana maviri ezviuru zvematani edhayi (anokosha bhiriyoni imwe yeUSD) anorasika kune tsvina nekuda kwekusashanda kwedhayi uye kupedza maitiro (Chequer et al., 2013).Izvi zvinoreva kuti maitiro aripo ekudhaya haasi kungopambadza zviwanikwa nemari chete, asi zvakare anoburitsa makemikari ane chepfu mumatsime emvura yakachena.60 kusvika 80 per cent yedhayi dzese iAZO dhayi, mazhinji acho achizivikanwa kuti ane carcinogenic.Chlorobenzenes inowanzoshandiswa kudhayi polyester, uye ine chepfu kana ikafemeswa kana kuti yakanangana neganda.Makemikari ane perfluorinated, formaldehydes uye chlorinated parafini inoshandiswa mukupedzisa maitiro ekugadzira mhedzisiro yekudzivirira mvura kana kunonoka kwemoto, kana kugadzira machira ari nyore kutarisira.
Sezvo indasitiri yakamira nhasi, vatengesi vemakemikari havafanirwe kupa zvese zvemukati mukati medhayi.Chirevo che2016 neKEMI chakawana kuti ingangoita 30% yemakemikari anoshandiswa mukugadzira machira nekudhaya aive zvakavanzika.Kushaikwa kwekubuda pachena uku kunoreva kuti vatengesi vemakemikari vanogona kunge vachishandisa zvinhu zvine chepfu muzvigadzirwa zvinozosvibisa matsime emvura panguva yekugadzira uye kukuvadza vanopfeka hanzu dzakapera.
Isu tinoziva kuti huwandu hukuru hwemakemikari anogona kuita muchetura anoshandiswa kudhayi zvipfeko zvedu, asi pane kushomeka kweruzivo uye pachena nezvezvivakwa zvavo zvine chekuita nehutano hwevanhu uye kwezvakatipoteredza.Ruzivo rusina kukwana nezvekemikari inoshandiswa imhaka yedandemutande rakakamurwa uye rakaomarara remaketani ekugovera uye kugovera.80% yemacheni ekutenga machira aripo kunze kweUnited States neEU, zvichiita kuti zviomere hurumende kudzora marudzi emakemikari anoshandiswa muzvipfeko zvinotengeswa munyika.
Sezvo vatengi vakawanda vachiziva nezvezvinokuvadza zvemaitiro ekugadzira dhayi, matekinoroji matsva anoita nzira yekuwedzera-inodhura, inoshanda-inoshanda uye inogoneka yekudhaya dzimwe nzira.Innovation mukugadzira dhayi tekinoroji inotangira kubva kusati kwarapwa donje, kudzvanywa CO2 dhayi application, uye kunyange kugadzira echisikigo pigments kubva kuhutachiona.Ikozvino kudhaya mitsva inogona kubatsira kuderedza kushandiswa kwemvura, kutsiva maitiro ekuparadza neanoshanda uye anodhura uye kuedza kushandura zvachose nzira yatinogadzira nayo pigment inopa zvipfeko zvedu mavara akanaka atinoda.
Matekinoroji asina mvura ekudhaya kwakasimba
Maitiro ekudhaya machira anosiyana zvichienderana nerudzi rwejira.Kudhaya kwedonje inguva yakareba uye yakawanda mvura uye inopisa-inopisa, nekuda kwehuipi husina kunaka hwehupfu hwekotoni.Izvi zvinoreva kuti kazhinji donje rinongotora chikamu che75% chedhayi inoshandiswa.Kuti uve nechokwadi chekuti ruvara runobata, jira rakadhayiwa kana shinda inogezwa nekudziiswa kakawanda, ichiburitsa mvura zhinji inoraswa.ColorZen inoshandisa tekinoroji ine patent iyo inofanobata donje risati rarukwa.Kugadziriswa uku kunoita kuti kudhaya kuve nekukurumidza, kunoderedza 90% yekushandiswa kwemvura, 75% kushoma kwesimba uye 90% kushoma kemikari angazodiwa pakudhayiwa kwedonje.
Kudhaya mafibhi ekugadzira, akadai sepolyester, ipfupi maitiro uye 99% kana kupfuura kugadzirisa dhayi (99% yedhayi inoiswa inotorwa nemucheka).Zvisinei, izvi hazvirevi kuti maitiro emazuva ano ekudhaya anochengetedza.AirDye inoshandisa madhayi akaparadzirwa anoiswa kune anotakura mapepa.Nekupisa chete, AirDye inotamisa dhayi kubva pabepa kuenda pamusoro pemachira.Uku kupisa kwakanyanya kunoisa mavara dhayi pamwero wemolecular.Pepa rinoshandiswa rinogona kushandiswa zvakare, uye 90% shoma mvura inoshandiswa.Zvakare, 85% shoma simba rinoshandiswa nekuti machira haadi kunyikwa mumvura uye kupisa kuomeswa nguva nenguva.
DyeCoo inoshandisa CO₂ kudhayi machira nenzira yakavharwa-loop."Kana yakamanikidzwa, CO₂ inova supercritical (SC-CO₂).Munyika iyi CO₂ ine simba rakanyanyisa rekunyungudutsa, rinobvumira dhayi kuti inyunguduke nyore nyore.Nekuda kwekupenya kwakanyanya, madhayi anotakurwa zviri nyore uye zvakadzika mumafibers, achigadzira mavara akajeka. "DyeCoo haidi chero mvura, uye vanoshandisa dhayi dzakachena dzine 98% kutora.Maitiro avo anodzivirira madhayi akawandisa ane makemikari ane hutsinye uye hapana tsvina inogadzirwa panguva yekuita.Ivo vakakwanisa kukwirisa iyi tekinoroji uye vane zvibvumirano zvekutengesa kubva kune ese ari maviri machira emagetsi uye ekupedzisira-vashandisi.
Pigments kubva kuhutachiona
Zvizhinji zvembatya dzatinopfeka nhasi dzine mavara nedhayi dzekugadzira.Dambudziko neizvi nderekuti zvakakosha zvigadzirwa, zvakaita semafuta asina kuchena anodiwa panguva yekugadzira uye makemikari anowedzerwa ane chepfu kune zvakatipoteredza uye miviri yedu.Kunyange zvazvo madhayi echisikigo asina muchetura zvishoma pane dhayi dzekugadzira, achiri kuda ivhu rekurima nemishonga yezvipembenene pamiti inoumba dhayi.
MaLabs pasi rese ari kutsvaga nzira nyowani yekugadzira ruvara rwezvipfeko zvedu: mabhakitiriya.Streptomyces coelicolor i microbe inongo shandura ruvara zvichienderana ne pH yepakati inokura mukati.Nokushandura nharaunda yayo, zvinokwanisika kudzora rudzi rwemuvara rwunova.Maitiro ekudhaya nebhakitiriya anotanga ne autoclaving mucheka kudzivirira kusvibiswa, wozodira svikiro rakazadzwa nehutachiona hwekudya pamusoro pemucheka mumudziyo.Zvadaro, machira akanyoroveswa anooneswa kubhakitiriya uye anosiiwa mukamuri inodzorwa nemamiriro ekunze kwemazuva akati wandei.Utachiona huri "kurarama dhayi" zvinhu, zvichireva kuti sezvo bhakitiriya inokura, iri kudhaya machira.Iyo machira inosukurudzwa uye kugezwa zvinyoro nyoro kuti isuke kunhuhwirira kwehutachiona hwepakati, wobva warega kuti uome.Dhayi dzemabhakitiriya dzinoshandisa mvura shoma pane dzakajairwa dhayi, uye dzinogona kushandiswa kudhaya mapatani mazhinji akasiyana neakakura emavara.
Faber Future, yeUK-based lab, iri kushandisa synthetic biology kuronga hutachiona kugadzira huwandu hukuru hwemavara hunogona kushandiswa kupenda zvese zvekugadzira uye zvechisikigo fiber (kusanganisira donje).
Living Color ipurojekiti yebiodesign yakavakirwa muNetherlands iyo iri kuongorora zvakare mikana yekushandisa mabhakitiriya anogadzira pigment kuti apende zvipfeko zvedu.Muna 2020, Living Colour nePUMA vakabatana kugadzira muunganidzwa wemitambo wakadhayiwa kekutanga.
Yakagadzikana yekudhaya yekutanga mune yedu ecosystem
Plug uye Play inoshingairira kutsvaga matekinoroji matsva anobatsira kufambisa shanduko inodiwa zvakanyanya mukati meindasitiri yekudhaya.Isu tinobatanidza hunyanzvi hwekutanga netiweki yedu yakakura yevadyidzani vemakambani, varairidzi, uye vanoisa mari.
Tarisa uone vamwe vedu vatinofarira:
Werewool iri kutora kurudziro kubva kune zvakasikwa kugadzira machira ane mavara anobva kumapuroteni.Imwe yemapuroteni aya anobva kuDiscosoma Coral iyo inoburitsa ruvara rwepingi rwakajeka.DNA yepuroteni iyi inogona kukopa uye kuiswa mubhakitiriya.Utachiona uhu hunokwanisa kurukwa kuita faibha kugadzira jira rine ruvara.
Isu aRe SpinDye madhayi akadzokororwa kubva mumabhodhoro emvura evatengi kana zvipfeko zvakaraswa zvisati zvarukwa kuita shinda.Tekinoroji yavo inonyungudutsa mavara eruvara uye polyester yakadzokororwa pamwechete pasina kushandisa mvura, izvo zvinoderedza kushandiswa kwemvura kwese ne75%.Munhau dzichangoburwa, H&M yashandisa We aRe SpinDye® maitiro ekudhaya muunganidzwa wavo weConscious Exclusive.
huue.inoita inogadzika, biosynthetic indigo yebhuruu yakaitirwa indasitiri yedenim.Tekinoroji yavo haishandisi petroleum, cyanide, formaldehyde kana kuderedza vamiririri.Izvi zvinobvisa huwandu hukuru hwekusvibiswa kwemvura.Panzvimbo pekushandisa makemikari ane chepfu, huue.inoshandisa shuga kugadzira dhayi.Ivo vanoshandisa proprietary bioengineering tekinoroji kugadzira hutachiona hunoratidza maitiro echisikigo uye kushandisa shuga kugadzira enzymatic kugadzira dhayi.
Tichine basa rokuita
Kuti matangiro ataurwa uye matekinoroji abudirire uye akwire kusvika padanho rekutengesa, zvakakosha kuti tifambise mari nekudyidzana pakati pemakambani madiki aya, nemakambani makuru aripo emafashoni nemakemikari.
Hazvigoneke kuti matekinoroji matsva ave sarudzo dzehupfumi dzinozotorwa nemhando dzefashoni pasina mari uye kudyidzana.Kudyidzana pakati peLiving Color nePUMA, kana SpinDye® neH&M ingori mbiri dzemibatanidzwa yakawanda inodiwa inofanirwa kuenderera mberi kana makambani akazvipira nemoyo wese kuchinjika akananga kumabasa ekudhaya anochengetedza zviwanikwa zvakakosha uye kurega kusvibisa nharaunda.
Nguva yekutumira: Mar-14-2022